A Grade-II listed cluster of historic buildings has been reimaged for the modern era as a European-style food court, work and retail space. Words by Hannah Tapping
Cornwall’s mining towns are etched with the marks of industry and ingenuity. Redruth, once the beating heart of Cornish prosperity, has in recent decades been caught in the ebb and flow of change, teetering on the brink of nostalgia and reinvention. Now, thanks to the efforts of Redruth Revival Community Interest Company (CIC), the town has a new focal point – The Buttermarket – a £4-million project led by six local volunteer directors whose aim is to ‘breathe new life into Redruth town centre’.
While its modern reinvention is the reason for my visit, I’m intrigued as to its past. In 1791, Redruth had the largest market in Cornwall, but it had to be demolished in 1795. Local landowner Sir Francis Basset instigated the construction of a new market in 1825 which became known as the Buttermarket and subsequently played a large part in developing Redruth’s identity as a market town. It was a popular meat market for many decades, however, over time as mining declined and economic shifts changed the town’s landscape, the Buttermarket gradually fell into disuse, its grand architecture left to weather the years.
Judy Davidson MBE, former Mayor of Redruth and chair of Redruth Revival CIC, has worked on the project for over a decade alongside fellow directors Jan Driver, Paul Harris, Aaron Pascoe, Tamsin Spargo, and Ross Williams. Their commitment has transformed an ambitious concept into a dynamic space where people can gather, create, and, most importantly, taste the world on their doorstep. “It has been a long journey, but to see the Buttermarket bustling with life again is incredibly rewarding,” says Judy. “This space is for everyone, and we hope it will continue to be a cornerstone of Redruth’s regeneration.”
ABOVE: © Huw Briscoe
The financial support behind the Buttermarket has been instrumental in making this project a reality. Stephen Boyce of the National Lottery Heritage Fund praised the initiative: “Redruth Revival CIC has done a fantastic job, not only saving these important historic buildings from decay and potential loss, but ensuring that they can play a vital part in Redruth’s social and economic future. This is precisely what the Heritage Enterprise scheme, from The National Lottery Heritage Fund, was designed to do, and we’re thrilled that National Lottery players’ money has been put to such positive use.”
Today, its revival represents not only a restoration of bricks and mortar but a reconnection to Redruth’s industrious past. The Buttermarket’s history and heritage have been front and centre during its design and restoration, with many historical features still intact or stylishly revitalised by Thread Architects.
As I pull into the adjacent Fair Meadow car park – also owned by the CIC with charges kept low during the day and free at night – there’s a steady stream of people walking up the granite steps into the entrance. There’s step-free and lift access further up the hill or during opening hours you can mooch past the independent shops on Market Way which leads straight into the Buttermarket’s courtyard. Granite abounds and original flagstones, pillars, arches and wrought-iron work have been carefully restored. All the woodwork’s had a coat of red paint, anchoring the building to the town’s mining heritage and quite frankly, making it into a joyous space to be. Designed to be ‘a laid-back playground for foodies and culture vultures’ the main courtyard, which house offices above, has undercover seating and outdoor tables and benches for when the weather’s fine. There’s space here for markets and music events and a soon-to-be cycle hub – this is understated cool meets sympathetic renovation at its best.
ABOVE: Bringing life back to the Buttermarket
In order to provide an indoor eating area and space to house the collective of kitchens, the architects created a central glass atrium that spans the far end of the courtyard. Its clever design means that it doesn’t detract from the building’s history yet provides a modern space for sampling the host of foodie delights on offer. The Buttermarket has its own coffee counter courtesy of Koffi Melvyn, serving Origin coffee roasted in Porthleven and Earles Bar (named after a business once on the site), where you can enjoy craft Verdant beers brewed in Penryn, fine wines or a quirky cocktail. There are four resident kitchens: Bango Kitchen, whose Asian street food is revered county-wide; Cowgirls serving grass-fed, retired dairy beef from the fields of nearby Stithians; Caths Cornish Kitchen for buttery pastry and pies; and Little Ears whose small-batch homemade pasta and sauces brings a taste of Italy to the Buttermarket. There are also smaller kitchens available to rent as pop-ups – on the day of my visit the aromatic smells emanating from The Jar’s Indian and Sri Lankan-style street food and Harry’s Mercado tacos are simply heavenly.
As all of the kitchens are situated around the central seating hub; the idea is that you grab a drink, order from whichever kitchen takes your fancy (it’s perfect for families who may not always want to eat the same style of food) and then wait for your little buzzer to sound that your food is ready to collect. It’s simple, yet ingenious. For a Thursday lunchtime on a grey early February day it’s impressive that most of the tables are already full and General Manager, Jonathan Bray tells me that evenings are even more popular. It’s easy to see why – it’s a cool venue, with cool tunes and super-tasty food… yet with a price point that won’t break the bank. Everything feels effortless – parking is easy, the space has a welcoming feel to it, ordering is simple and the flavours are unforgettable.
ABOVE: The space lends itself to feasting with family and friends | © Huw Briscoe
Sipping hot coffees as we chat, Jonathan goes on to say that: “To see this iconic building come alive again is nothing short of joyous. We’re committed to delivering experiences and events on a regular basis as The Buttermarket becomes the new beating heart of Redruth and a major attraction in Cornwall. Events for all ages are already underway and the spacious courtyard promises to be an ideal summer venue.
For a recent feast night, Bango Kitchen teamed up with Sharp’s Brewing Company for an immersive Silent Bistro experience, an evening that fused small-plate Asian street food with expert beer pairings. Guests dined on exquisitely crafted dishes such as Mylor Scallipop (a Thai kaffir lime fish ball served with primrose herd kushiyaki), West Country Teriyaki Flat Iron Steak, and a rich 48-hour roast chicken and pork tonkotsu noodle broth – all perfectly matched with Sharp’s Offshore Pilsner, Twin Coast Session Pale Ale, and the distinctive Doom Bar daiquiri ‘hoptail.’ It was an evening of bold flavours, sensory surprises, and the kind of culinary collaboration that the Buttermarket was built to foster.
Nick Archer of Bango Kitchen reflected on the experience: “We had a fantastic evening with our friends at Sharp’s, providing a whole evening of flavourful immersions for our shared guests. Our specially created dishes were greatly received and perfectly paired with Sharp’s beers and ciders. It is a real joy to experience people enjoying different flavour combinations that they might not usually consider.”
ABOVE: © Huw Briscoe
The vision doesn’t stop here though. With all profits from Redruth CIC properties reinvested into regeneration projects, the Buttermarket is only the beginning. Plans are already in motion to further revitalise Redruth, with new projects on the horizon that promise to cement the town’s reputation as a cultural and culinary destination.
As the Buttermarket continues to evolve, one thing is certain: Redruth’s story is far from over. With a thriving food scene, an emerging cultural identity, and a commitment to reinvention, this historic town is proving that comebacks aren’t just for the big cities. Sometimes, the most exciting transformations happen where you least expect them – tucked between the echoes of history and the promise of something new.