Words by Hannah Tapping
Dreamy ocean-front escapism at the St Moritz; an art deco-inspired hotel that is a chic haven of Cornish north coast splendour.
Approaching the St Moritz hotel via winding Cornish lanes through the village of Trebetherick makes the reveal all that more special. High hedges give way to a gleaming white art-deco-inspired building that stands in an enviable elevated position above Greenaway Beach with views across to Stepper Point beyond. I find that the welcome you receive at a hotel’s reception can often be a precursor of what you can expect to come. As I walked into the vaulted atrium, with vast hanging lights at its apex, my first feeling was one of calm. The gentle fragrance of ylang ylang and rose drifted on the air as one of the hosts greeted me with a smile and an air of nothing being too much trouble.
While the space was beautiful nothing felt ostentatious. Cosy sofas were occupied by excited families waiting to pull on a pair of wellies and head down to explore Rock in the hotel’s electric minibus; guests clad in fluffy white robes were heading into the newly developed luxury spa area, and a local couple were signing in to the gym. The feeling was one of community and inclusivity – all were welcome. Check-in was effortless and our host escorted us to our accommodation. We felt more like guests at an effortlessly cool house rather than a hotel, largely down to the staff, who strike the perfect balance between relaxed and attentive.
The options at St Moritz are hugely versatile with a mix of traditional hotel rooms, larger suites, coastal villas or apartments. There is also the option of choosing from a selection of individual or interconnected room pods. Each pod comprises a suite, a king room, and a cosy room, which combine to create an apartment connected by a private hallway and are ideal for groups or families, offering a blend of bedroom privacy and communal spaces. The accommodation doesn’t stop there, such is the hotel’s versatility; coastal villas, eight recently added garden apartments and an off-site house complete the picture. The St Moritz holds families close to its heart and offers a family-friendly, home-away-from-home stay that can be enjoyed by everyone, no matter their age.
Ours was a ground-floor suite which exuded coastal elegance from the moment we crossed the threshold. An exploration of the rooms revealed effortlessly chic décor combined with eminently practical touches. The bedroom was a vast oasis of calm with crisp white linen complimented by turquoise accents of throws and cushions scattered like the tumbled sea glass you find on Cornish shores. The result is a relaxed yet thoughtfully curated space where minimalism is contrasted with playful accents of nautical-inspired colour. The living area boasted a sofa and a dining table to seat six, alongside a gleamingly clean fully-fitted kitchen. The furniture took its inspiration from simple design codes, mid-century modern in its simplicity and framed by vast patio doors that on inspection opened out onto a sun-drenched private garden patio.
We had arrived on one of those beautifully still blue-sky autumn days when the last vestiges of summer warmth still cling to the air but the sun’s lower position in the sky casts an almost ethereal haze. Gentle planting surrounded our private terrace and there were sea glimpses beyond. The gentle murmur of other happy couples drifted down from the higher apartments and as I looked back at the hotel it was reminiscent of a liner from days gone by. Stretched out on sun loungers we sipped chilled glasses of rosé letting the last rays of the day warm our faces.
As the sun finally dipped beyond the horizon, we withdrew to the calm confines of our suite to ready ourselves for a visit to the newly developed pool and relaxation area. The St Moritz boasts the only Cowshed Spa you’ll find outside of the Soho House properties which can be found in luxury locations across the UK, Europe and the States, where treatment-led natural therapies are based on English country garden botanicals to nourish body and soul. After significant investment, the pool area has now also been elevated to provide a relaxation experience that includes an indoor pool that connects to a swim-out hydro pool area along with both a high-heat and a Nordic sauna and a crystal steam room. We stretched on heated loungers with our books, sipping herbal tea, relishing in a moment of peace away from the rigours of work and busy family life before partaking in some heat and cold therapy.
The facilities in the spa area are as luxurious as the rest of the hotel, where attention to detail is obvious at every turn. I’m often anxious when I stay somewhere new, hating it when high hopes are dashed by disappointment. There was never a need to worry here, the St Moritz makes me feel at home and more relaxed with every new experience.
Tearing ourselves away from the healing heat and waters of the spa, we return to our suite in readiness for dinner – a five-course Fresh Feast that promises a celebration of local produce and is inspired by the hotel’s new Chef De Cuisine Jake Grove’s passion for seasonal ingredients and culinary innovation. As we make our way up the sweeping staircase to the Shorecrest restaurant and bar it’s as if we’ve been transported to a 1930s movie reel such is the elegance. The excited chatter of expectant diners sipping perfectly mixed gin and tonics fills the air.
The feast is a long-table affair and the brainchild of Sara Last, the hotel’s general manager, her intention to bring together hotel guests, local members and producers in a celebration of food sourced from Cornwall’s hyper-local larder. What we experience is so far removed from what you might expect of a hotel restaurant. The air was electric; guests reuniting with old acquaintances or making new connections and the enthusiasm of the maître d’ infectious to all those around him as he introduced each of the courses carefully prepared by Jake and his fellow chefs in the open kitchen. It was so refreshing to see and exciting to be a part of.
Jake’s menu was inspired by the hotel’s local producers some of whom had joined in for the feast. Richard and Cathy Hore from Restharrow farm, located just a few hundred yards from the hotel, had supplied the freshest of seasonal veg for the occasion. The rare-breed duck was courtesy of Tintagel Duck Farm, a family-run business just along the north coast; delicate herbs and ripe autumn fruits had been picked from the hotel’s gardens; while Chocolate for the unctuous dessert was sourced from Chocolarder in Falmouth, a bean to bar operation using only ethical farming practices. An evening of pure happiness was experienced by all not least due to the heady mix of good company, attentive yet unobtrusive service and some of the most delicious food I have tasted in a very long time. For me, the authenticity of each element was what made it so special.
After-dinner drinks were served in the bar where replete guests welcomed the comfort of the leather sofas and were happy to just sit and watch the flames of the wood burner dance in the grate. One by one guests retreated for a night’s restful sleep with happy hearts and full tummies and we weren’t long to follow. Cocooned in Egyptian cotton, and with the patio doors ajar just enough to let in the cool night air and the gentle sound of the Atlantic lapping the shores beyond, we slept like babies.
Dawn broke with steel grey skies, a stark contrast to the sunshine of the previous day, yet no less beautiful. With the sea in such close proximity, we couldn’t not partake in a pre-breakfast walk down to the beach. Passing the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool – which is heated in summer and also plays host to the Seaside Pool Club in season – its flanks of vibrant beach huts available for guest use are another nod to the Miami Beach vibe that is evident here. Just a short walk takes us down to Greenaway Beach, deserted but for a few gulls circling the cliffs above.
A sea-dip takes my breath away, but the skin-tingling feeling is so worth it as we scour the tide line for treasures. Sparkles of sea glass glint in the sand and we are also rewarded with the palest of pink cowrie shells that we pocket as mementos of a stay that has surpassed expectations. We are hard-pressed to leave such a place of peace.
