Words by Hannah Tapping
On Cornwall’s wild western shores, St Aubyn Estates’ holiday cottages offer a refreshing authenticity from which to experience the dramatic, natural landscape on their doorstep.
As with all good tales, it’s best to start with some history and this is no exception, as St Aubyn Estates has long since been part of the very fabric of the landscape of west Cornwall. To understand the allure of its cottages, we should begin at the beginning. The St Aubyn family has owned property and land in Cornwall since the fourteenth century; its most iconic being St Michael’s Mount, which stands sentinel in the horseshoe of Mounts Bay. The Mount is now looked after and run in partnership by the St Aubyn family and National Trust.
While many flock to Cornish shores for its white-sand beaches and chic coastal towns, the county boasts other, more remote, locations that hold a hidden allure for those seeking a more authentic experience. The fishing villages of Newlyn and Mousehole offer a glimpse into days gone by and are wonderful for a wander. Further west, you’ll find a host of ancient sites that reveal its mystical past. Highlights include the stone circles of Merry Maidens and the towering stones of the Men-an-Tol, and Lanyon Quoit. For art lovers, the award-winning Jackson Foundation in St Just celebrates the space between art and the natural world, while a visit to Botallack on Cornwall’s ‘tin coast’ reveals iconic engine houses and other relics of the area’s mining heritage. For the more adventurous, the surf break at Sennen is world-class.
You’ll find St Aubyn Estates Cottages in Porthgwarra at Cornwall’s westernmost tip, a typical Cornish coastal village whose history lies in fishing and mining. Famous for its tunnels, hand dug by the miners and fishermen of old, Porthgwarra sits right on the South West Coast Path, which traces this iconic stretch of coastline.
Walk left and you’ll arrive at The Minack Theatre and the much-photographed Pedn Vounder Beach; head to the right and you’ll pass Nanjizal Bay before arriving at Land’s End. In summer, you’ll find the edges of the South West Coast Path dotted with pink thrift, whose heads nod in the breeze to the soundtrack of circling sea birds. The cliffs below make perfect nesting sites and one of the best places for bird watching is Gwennap Head near Porthgwarra, where you’re likely to spot shearwaters, skuas and petrels as well as a colony of magnificent gannets, and even the occasional Cornish chough. Cast your eyes seaward and you could be rewarded with the tell-tale head of a seal or two bobbing in the bay or perhaps a pods of dolphins whose bodies arc gracefully through the waves.
However, it’s not just the landscape here that has put Porthgwarra on the map, this is deepest Poldark country with many scenes being set on its slipway. It’s an area of Cornwall that can be enjoyed year-round; whether that be sun-soaked cliff walks in summer or wild wave watching in winter, and it boasts being a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) as well as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
For all who stay here, there is an immersion into a wild west Cornwall experience that is unforgettable. The cottages are not just a destination, they are a living history, reflecting the evolution of the region over centuries. Their granite facades, warmed by the sun in summer and offering protection from storms in winter, welcome those who visit with a true Cornish charm. One of the largest cottages is Bosistow Farmhouse which sleeps eight. Driving down the track, cares leave like gossamer on the breeze – its remote location offers a rural retreat for those who seek the peace of solitude. The only sounds here are the cries of the gulls and the gentle low of cattle in the surrounding fields.
The farmhouse has been carefully restored, combining modern comforts with historical charm. Exposed granite and natural wood abound, with a wood burner for lighting on chilly nights, and two living spaces to allow everyone to find a place to relax. Modern amenities haven’t been overlooked with a fully-equipped kitchen, WiFi, smart television and EV charging point. Panoramic sea and rural views abound and its location is such that you could spend each day exploring on foot from the door should you choose.
Three Chimneys also sleeps eight and its elevated position on the top of the hill has made it a landmark for passing ships. Surrounded by moorland, the location is exquisite – summer months bring a tapestry of colour with swathes of purple heather and sweet-coconut-smelling gorse, while winter days bring moody tones and rough seas that are best captured from a window seat with a good book in hand.
Higher Roskestal, which sleeps six, is reminiscent of the houses we drew in childhood, its central front door having welcomed families over its threshold for centuries. Free-range fun for children comes in the form of an expanse of lawn while the interior is furnished for relaxation, meaning that finding peace here is effortless. Two of the cottages sleep four, but are no less comfortable or inviting despite their slightly smaller size. Cove Cottage, as its name suggests, is moments from the waterline.
Nestled into the very cliff itself, its weathered stonework is the façade to a cosy bolthole. Faraway Cottage is just that, surrounded by fields and hedgerows overlooking Nanjizal cove. Whether enjoying the view from its sea-facing garden or tucked up in front of the wood burner, this is a true escape from the hustle and bustle.
The final cottages in the St Aubyn portfolio offer romantic retreats for two at Corner Cottage and Pendower Cottage. They invite leisurely breakfasts in bed before days of rambling along the South West Coast Path. Don’t forget your binoculars for a glimpse of those seabirds or simply sit for a while and watch the ships sail by.
All of the cottages here are dog-friendly, welcoming well-behaved hounds, and guests are welcomed with a hamper of Cornish treats and snacks on arrival. There’s also a small, picture-perfect café in Porthgwarra where guests can indulge in a complimentary hot drink. Serving homemade cakes and pastries, Moomaid of Zennor ice cream and steaming pasties and delicious cream teas, this is a regular haunt for cottage guests who enjoy its foodie fayre from its garden that’s just a stone’s throw from the slipway.
Whichever cottage you choose, this truly is a beautiful place, where wholesome holidays come as standard. The weathered nature of this area of west Cornwall is part of its magical charm, there really is nowhere else like it.
