An indoor flower garden
- Bex Partridge
- Apr 7
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 11
Words By Bex Partridge
When skies are leaden and the ground is thick with mud, indoor gardens are the perfect way to brighten darker days. These small pots of joy are so simple to create and require just a small amount of forethought at the end of the year to fill our homes with fresh flowers in the early part of the next year. They are a pop of colour set against a gloomy backdrop, and in some cases – such as with hyacinths – provide the most incredible aroma, enough to lift anyone out of a slump. I couldn’t be without them, and I nestle these pots purposefully around the house to be noticed as I go about my day. Favourite spots include by the bed, particularly for those that have a scent, on the kitchen table and at my desk.
This method of growing flower bulbs is called forcing, where we are creating a safe and welcoming environment for the bulbs to allow them to quickly sprout and bloom (often in as little as 6–8 weeks). Bulbs are quite miraculous in that everything they need to flourish is already stored within the bulb, and this means we can be clever about how we force them. While many of us will be aware of forcing paperwhites (a snowy narcissus) and amaryllis by simply resting the bottom part of the bulb in a shallow bowl of water, any spring bulb can be helped along using this method.
I tend to favour small and delicate blooms over the blousy, shouty ones. Smaller blooms such as crocus can get lost outside unless planted en masse, and so to have them flowering indoors offers the opportunity to really stop and appreciate their intricate beauty. And snake’s head fritillaries win my heart every year, their heads gently nodding on divine twisting stems.
Nearly all the bulbs and plants listed can be transplanted to the garden once they have flowered and begun to fade. While they may not all be as vigorous or vibrant the next year, they will settle into their new environment and before long will naturalise.
FAVOURITE BULBS TO FORCE
Grape hyacinths
Narcissi (‘golden bells’ and ‘spoirot’)
Snake’s head fritillary (mice love the bulbs of snake’s head, so if forcing in the greenhouse keep them covered)
Crocus (mice also love crocus bulbs!)
Iris reticulata
Paperwhites (these can’t be planted outside as they’re not hardy)
Amaryllis (these can sometimes flower up to three times in one season, so wait patiently as the first blooms go over)
Hyacinths
Snowdrops
Snowflakes
Bluebells
Note: Snowdrops, snowflakes and bluebells can also be forced but do much better when planted in the green (when shoots of green have appeared rather than dormant bulbs – this goes for when planting out in the garden too). If I want to bring snowdrops inside then I will dig up a clump from the garden just as the green shoots appear, then replant as the flowers fade. Please never dig up snowdrops or bluebells, or indeed any plants from the wild – only take from your own spaces or where you have permission.
GATHER
Mushroom trays (optional)
A selection of pretty pots: I make my own and also source from thrift stores and vintage stores. I adore the old terracotta pots I’ve used here.
Gravel
Compost mixed with loam
Moss
Method
1. I like to start my bulbs off in mushroom trays in the greenhouse before moving them over to pots just before they begin to flower: this helps when growing many bulbs at one time. You can also plant directly into your preferred vessel.
2. Give some consideration to the bulb and vessel combination. For shorter bulbs you will want to select a smaller vessel such as a terracotta pot, and for something like a paperwhite (which can grow very tall) you’ll want to use a vessel with more depth and weight.
3. Begin by placing a small layer of gravel at the bottom of your vessel.
4. Fill the rest of the pot with your compost mix, leaving enough space at the top to nestle in your bulbs.
5. Position your bulbs with their roots touching the earth. The bulbs can be placed quite close together, and you can choose to create a mix of flowers or fill each vessel with the same type. Use your imagination and tap into your creative vision.
6. Nestle a small amount of soil in and around the bulbs, but don’t entirely cover them.
7. Cover with a layer of gravel or moss, depending on your preference, as this helps the bulbs stay moist and not dry out.
8. Keep the bulbs inside away from the elements to encourage them to grow. The warmer the temperatures, the faster the bulbs will grow and flower. If you have lots of pots, you can stagger where you keep your bulbs so that you have a continuous supply of beautiful blooms through winter and into spring.
9. Some flowers will need supporting as they can grow very tall and top heavy. Paperwhites are the main ones that will need some assistance. You can create support structures using hazel (whose catkins are particularly lovely) and birch twigs, which both complement the flowers.