One brewery, two pubs – wrapped within the wild wonders of a shifting Cornish landscape. Words by Jamie Crocker
Winter and spring in Cornwall reveal a more contemplative side of this celebrated county. Stripped of summer’s crowds, its zig-zagging coastlines, cosy pubs and vibrant culture come into sharper focus, offering moments for reflection and contemplation in equal measure. At the heart of this quieter Cornwall are the pubs managed by St Austell Brewery – flag wavers of Cornish hospitality that meld flavoursome ales and hearty food with welcoming atmospheres. Among them, the Old Success Inn in Sennen Cove and the Ship Inn in Mousehole are particularly enticing destinations, embodying the best of Cornwall’s appeal.
Perched at the end of the golden curve of Sennen Cove, the Old Success Inn has been quenching the thirst of many a quaffer since 1671. Here, the might of the Atlantic meets the warmth of a quintessential pub, making it a sanctuary for walkers, surfers, and those simply seeking solace by the sea. From the inn’s vantage point, Whitesand Bay unfurls in dramatic splendour – a scene both bracing in winter’s gusts and inviting under spring’s lengthening light.
After a windswept walk or an invigorating dip in the clear waters, patrons are drawn back to the Old Success Inn for its fine seasonal menu. South West produce takes pride of place, with dishes that speak of the region’s culinary heritage. Mixing such fare with a pint of Tribute, Korev lager, or the hoppy Proper Job elevates the experience. And for those seeking refreshment without the alcohol, there’s Proper Job 0.5%, which boasts all the bright, citrusy notes and resinous pine of the original but allows you to maintain a clearer head.
For night owls with a penchant for wonder, a short drive inland brings you to the West Penwith Dark Sky Park. Officially recognised for its inky black heavens, this park offers an unmatched opportunity to see the cosmos in all its glory. Whether you catch a meteor streaking across the sky or simply wish to marvel at the Milky Way’s luminous sprawl, the experience underscores Cornwall’s elemental beauty.
ABOVE - Experience the charm of the Old Success Inn
Beyond the pub and its nearby beach, Sennen Cove is a draw for outdoor enthusiasts. Try surfing with one of the local surf schools, where expert instructors guide beginners through their first waves. For those more grounded, the surrounding area is crisscrossed with walking trails that showcase the region’s raw beauty. A trek to Mayon Cliff reveals a panorama of rolling hills and dramatic seas punctuated by glimpses of wildlife such as seals and seabirds.
A little further east lies Mousehole, a village that seems as though it’s been lifted from a storybook. Narrow lanes wind down to a picturesque harbour, where fishing boats bob alongside the tide. It’s a place that thrives on its traditions, none more famous than the Stargazy pie – a curious dish of fish and pastry immortalised in Cornish lore. But visit Mousehole in December, and you’ll find another spectacle: its legendary Christmas lights. Draped along the harbour walls and reflected in the rippling water, this festive display has been warming winter hearts for decades.
At the centre of this enchantment is the Ship Inn. Built in the 18th century, its façade glows softly under the lights, beckoning visitors inside. Here, low beams and timeworn floors speak of a history intertwined with the sea. Walls adorned with maritime memorabilia recall Mousehole’s fishing heritage, while the snug interior – complete with roaring fire – offers an irresistible retreat from the cold.
ABOVE - Harbour views, seaside charm
The Ship Inn’s hospitality extends beyond its cosy confines, with a menu celebrating local bounty. Fresh seafood, Cornish cheeses, and the brewery’s finest ales take centre stage. Raise a glass of Tribute to the harbour’s history or sip Proper Job 0.5% while marvelling at the interplay of past and present that defines this special place.
Mousehole’s charm extends into its surroundings. A short walk along the South West Coast Path brings you to Lamorna Cove, a secluded bay that has inspired countless artists over the years. Further afield, the nearby Newlyn Art Gallery and The Exchange provide a cultural counterpoint, showcasing contemporary works that reflect the vibrancy of Cornwall’s artistic scene.
Both the Old Success Inn and the Ship Inn offer more than exceptional food and drink; they’re launchpads for adventures that deepen your connection to Cornwall. From Sennen Cove, the South West Coast Path opens like an invitation to explore. Head west to Land’s End, where rugged cliffs plunge dramatically into the sea, or journey east toward Cape Cornwall, a lesser-known but equally captivating promontory that was once believed to be the mainland’s most westerly point.
ABOVE - dining with a picturesque backdrop – the Ship Inn in Mousehole captures it all
In Mousehole, a gentle stroll along the harbour provides moments of quiet delight, but for those in search of something grander, a short drive to Porthcurno brings you to the Minack Theatre. This open-air amphitheatre, carved into the granite cliffside, is a marvel in itself, offering performances that take place in front of one of the most unique and fascinating cycloramas in the world.
Even the journey between these two pubs is its own reward. Winding coastal roads reveal vistas that shift with the weather, while small detours lead to hidden coves, ancient stone circles and artist’s studios. For history buffs, a visit to the Geevor Tin Mine near Pendeen offers a glimpse into Cornwall’s industrial past, complete with underground tours and interactive exhibits. Meanwhile, nature lovers will appreciate the nearby Botallack Mines, where craggy ruins cling to the cliffs, echoing the county’s rich mining heritage.
The backbone of these pubs is, of course, St Austell Brewery. With over 170 years of brewing heritage, it has become synonymous with quality ales and a commitment to community. Its portfolio – ranging from the crisp korev lager to the robust Proper Job – has long been a staple of South West pubs. But it’s the launch of Proper Job 0.5% that signals an exciting evolution, offering a non-alcoholic option without compromising on taste.
ABOVE - Wake up to a view of one of Cornwall’s most captivating small harbours
St Austell’s 44-managed houses, including the Old Success Inn and Ship Inn, encapsulate its ethos of pairing great beer with welcoming spaces. Each pub is a celebration of its locale, reflecting the spirit of its surroundings while maintaining the brewery’s hallmark standards.
Cornwall’s allure is undeniable, but its true magic often lies in the quieter seasons. There’s a particular joy in wrapping hands around a pint in front of a crackling real fire, gazing out at a restless sea, or simply walking until the path becomes sky. In the Old Success Inn and the Ship Inn, St Austell Brewery offers more than just places to eat and drink; they’re places where moments of connection – with nature, history and others – are crafted and cherished.
Save 20% on a two-night stay with code DRIFT20. Book by 1st April 2025 for stays until 23rd December 2025. Code valid for two-night stays, Sunday-Thursday at the Ship Inn and Old Success only.