Words by Hannah Tapping
On a late summer foray to Watergate Bay’s Beach Hut, I find that a taste of Italy has landed on Cornish shores.
I always find solace in September. Just as the tide retreats leaving pristine shores in its wake so does the hustle and bustle of high season as a cloak of quiet calm settles on Cornwall. With the sun sitting lower in the sky, the colours of the day are muted but no less beautiful, with reflections on the water sending up auras of iridescent sparkle. Tones appear hushed as wanderers and coastal explorers meander along the sand while those die-hard rockpoolers and sand-castle builders, too young for the return to school, don a coastal autumn uniform of dryobe® and beanie hat.
Watergate Bay is more than just a stretch of sand and surf. It’s become a community for the discerning, whether that be a stay at the Watergate Bay Hotel, lunch at its Beach House or dinner at the newly opened Zacry’s on the sea wall. The hotel sets the scene for contemporary beach holidays. It’s a place that’s about the balance in life – being active, getting among the elements, eating and drinking well, chilling out and getting cosy. Most of all, it’s about having a good time. The renowned surf school and activity experts Wavehunters now also has a base here, so however you want to experience an escape by the ocean the choice is endless.
Today is a special September day. Blue skies and light offshore winds combine to create perfect surf conditions. Wetsuit-clad thrill seekers dot the lines of swell, all waiting for the perfect wave. The beach is a veritable hive of activity as this weekend has seen Watergate Bay Hotel host the first-of-its-kind Deep Dish volleyball tournament, welcoming some of the best volleyball players in the UK. We see would-be volleyballers playing on the have-a-go pitch, as expert coaches deliver mini sessions to all ages and skill levels. With tunes playing on the deck and professional commentators buoying the crowd, the atmosphere is electric.
Watergate Bay has certainly adopted a European feel today, as its Beach Hut is hosting a BIRRA MORETTI takeover to celebrate the nautical-inspired Sale Di Mare, a sea salt-spiked beer that comes as a refreshing treat on a day like today. The Cornish Italian is down on the sand serving Italian small plates as well as pouring glasses of ice-cold Sale Di Mare and happy spectators have bagged themselves a deckchair and are having the time of their lives as they watch the action unfold.
We’ve walked the length of the beach and back watching the waves and after cheering ourselves hoarse at an exciting match our thoughts turn to lunch at the Beach Hut. The takeover is in full flow as we are welcomed by our host. So, why specifically a BIRRA MORETTI takeover you may ask? In 1859 an authentic beer was born in Italy by Luigi Moretti at only 37 years old. Since then, the production process hasn’t changed. Produced in the traditional way, with premium raw materials and a special blend of hops and fine malts, this low-fermentation beer has a unique aroma people have grown to know and love. The quality of the range has been appreciated and recognised in Italy and further afield by industry experts from all over the world, receiving 148 international awards in the last 14 years.
The newest member of the famiglia, BIRRA MORETTI Sale Di Mare, is a medium-bodied premium lager at 4.8% ABV, containing Italian sea salt for full flavoured refreshment. It’s a beer born on the colourful coast of Italy, where the sea provides the backdrop to slow lunches and long afternoons, family gatherings and quality time spent together. Exactly what we are doing today, just on Cornish shores.
Branded aprons, coasters and the all-important BIRRA MORETTI pumps and bar decals that contain the iconic moustached man, Baffo, sipping a fresh pint of Moretti decorate the restaurant. The story goes that Luigi Moretti’s nephew saw Baffo in a bar and instantly knew he’d found the embodiment of the real values of his beer in this man. Being a passionate type, Moretti’s nephew approached Baffo, asking him for a photograph. Baffo requested one thing in return – another Birra Moretti. He has been on their labels ever since.
The Beach Hut has cleverly created an Italian ambience that feels like the chicest of ski bars has been transported to the coast. While the sun is shining, there’s a crisp September chill in the air, but no matter as a warm welcome by our host, a cosy table perfectly positioned to take advantage of the view and rugs for chilly knees mean we feel instantly at home.
Our taste buds are tempted by delicious aromas that pervade the air as expectant diners receive plates laden with Italian-inspired dishes. We start with a rosemary focaccia, good oil and balsamic, shin and calamari arancini, and burrata with Datterini tomatoes and botarga. We’ve decided that the convivial atmosphere, stoked by the spirit of the ‘divine coast’ invites sharing and so we sample a taste of each, the first mouthful equally as delicious as the last – washed down, of course with Sale Di Mare. It’s a full-bodied beer with notes of citrus and pine. Unfiltered, hazy and designed to be enjoyed with food, the saline kick of Italian sea salt makes it the ideal accompaniment as we savour each sip, watching the action unfold on the beach below.
A bucatini of crab, chilli and lemon pangrattato, steak tagliata served with rocket and Parmigiano Reggiano and pollo Milanese fagioli verdi con pangrattato follow. Simple ingredients, treated with care are elevated to dishes that make eyes widen as each mouthful transports us to foreign climes. No Italian lunch can be savoured without concluding with a gelato – scoops of pistacchio, stracciatella and cioccolato al latte disappear all too quickly. A strong Italian coffee concludes what has been the finest of lunches – saluti!
Since our visit, a fresh culinary chapter has begun at Watergate Bay Hotel as Chris Eden joins to lead the food and teams in all three of its restaurants. As a Watergate Bay regular himself – bringing his family to The Beach Hut after beach walks for “hefty” hot chocolates – Chris knows just how much this place means to people.
Excited by the range of Watergate Bay’s offering, from the laid-back eating, drinking and sharing in The Living Space to the elegant simplicity and knock-out views of Zacry’s, he’s keen to step up to the challenge. Chris is set on making sure that wherever people pull up a seat, the dishes are always underpinned by seasonality, and the experience will always leave them with a smile on their faces.
