Finding solace by the sea at SeaSpace, with an off-season adventure that reveals an alluring authenticity. Words by Hannah Tapping
The Newquay of my teenage years was one of endless surf days, followed by barefoot wanderings through the town, visiting what were then some of the only surf shops in Cornwall. With scrubbed floorboards underfoot and the heady smell of neoprene mixed with coconut-scented boardwax filling our nostrils, we would chat about the swell and the latest boards – Newquay’s surfshops and cool independent cafés were home to mini communities back then, filled with itinerant wavehunters looking for the next big swell.
The town had a unique identity that I loved. Fast forward a decade and it started to lose its appeal. National chains spoiled the fun and what had once been the beating heart of Cornwall’s holiday scene was reduced to a place without a soul, famous more for its rowdy crowds than its surf chic.
Thankfully, another decade on, Newquay has regained its lustre. A really cool vibe has permeated the town and beyond. Outward investment has elevated the accommodation offering, and a new breed of successful entrepreneurs are at the helm of the towns’ eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, bars, cafés and attractions. Hugely talented artisan craftspeople are making their way here and there’s even a new part of town thanks to the Duchy of Cornwall. Nansledan is a Cornish mixed-use community of up to 4,000 homes with its own shops, schools and public spaces, designed to meet Newquay’s future needs in a complementary and sustainable manner.
Fitting then, that for a weekend of out-of-season rediscovery of Newquay we choose SeaSpace; a brand-new self-catering coastal aparthotel and community-led space on the clifftop above Porth, just on the town’s fringe. The brainchild of CEO Ben Harper, it was his dream to create a community-focused space which would cater for locals and visitors alike. The idea of the aparthotel was to offer all the flex and freedom of self-catering with hotel-style perks. It’s a place to stay, a place to work, a place to eat and drink, a place to socialise, a place to exercise – but actually, it’s so much more than even the sum of all those parts.
TOP LEFT - Whipsiderry Beach | BOTTOM LEFT & RIGHT - A community café
Let me set the scene. We leave home after work on Friday and drive just 40 minutes across the county from south to north, which makes this an ideal escape if you live in Cornwall and just want a few days away. Fear not, for those of you who are out-of-county dwellers the opening of the new A30 has made access into the Duchy much quicker and, with daily flights in and out of London, Cornwall Airport Newquay is conveniently located pretty much on the doorstep… but I digress. On arrival, a huge mural on the side of the building, commissioned from abstract artist and local teacher Phil Strugnell, welcomes us. Imbibed with the colours of Cornwall it heralds an interiors theme that runs throughout the hotel.
As we walk up the winding path to the reception, my teenage daughter comments that it’s like arriving on a ‘proper’ holiday. By proper, she means abroad and I have to agree that there’s something of a Mediterranean feel about it. Maybe it’s nodding pampas that dance to the sound of the breakers beyond, maybe it’s the building’s curved façade. Perhaps it’s the welcoming reception space, scented by gentle land&water products, or it’s the happy chatter of guests enjoying a drink at the bar. It’s certainly not the weather as we have arrived on a night of thick Cornish mizzle, but that is no matter as we’re not here to sunbathe, we’re here to explore.
Where comfort meets contemporary chic
Check in is simplicity itself, and there are smiles all round. After a WhatsApp message pings in from Sam, SeaSpace’s virtual assistant, offering her help with any queries for the duration of our stay, we are set to find our accommodation. SeaSpace has a variety of rooms from studios to two- and three-bedroom apartments, all with kitted-out kitchens and a space to chill. Ours is a two-bedroom apartment and the moment we enter those Cornish colours from the mural are echoed in the design. It’s cosy yet uncluttered.
The designers have effortlessly achieved cool-kid chic here by combining natural and industrial materials, mixing rich colours with abstract patterns and adding a hint of mid-century modern. Our dining table has an American diner vibe about it and doubles up as a comfortable place to work should the need arise – although the sea view from expansive windows might prove to be a bit of a distraction. A separate galley kitchen is well-equipped and ideal for those staying on a budget or wanting the versatility of self-catering. Crisp linen and fluffy towels receive a nod of appreciation from teenage daughter as do the land&water products in the bathroom.
We spend the evening in TALLOW, SeaSpace’s Italian-American-inspired neighbourhood eatery enjoying local beers from Harbour Brewing Co and feasting on a delicious selection of Italian New York-inspired small plates. Crispy Cornish sardines with sage and tarragon are a must-try as are the Taleggio arancini with black garlic aioli. For a mizzly evening in January, TALLOW is buzzing with guests and walk-ins, families and couples. As a recently opened venture, it’s clear that fostering a community spirit here is high on the agenda. TALLOW currently opens Thursdays to Sundays, but will be open seven days a week from March 2025.
Sleeping soundly in extremely comfortable beds, we amble down for breakfast. Again, we are welcomed by the happy chatter of those already enjoying buttery pastries or pancakes piled high, accompanied by steaming coffees. Word has obviously quickly spread that this is the place to be for breakfast or brunch. TALLOW and SeaSpace Café are part of a large communal space that has been cleverly laid out with a mix of traditional tables, sit-up bar areas, sink-into chairs and American-style booths; there’s a place for all.
The day has dawned much brighter than yesterday. Gone is the mizzle to be replaced by a pale grey sky with the occasional hint of sunlight and a green-blue ocean that is delivering the most epic of winter swells. My phone pings, it’s not Sam this time, rather an indignant message from my number one son who is bemoaning the fact he is away at college and not pulling on his wetsuit and carving said waves. They are so perfect, it is literally as if someone has drawn lines across the sea as they march towards the shore.
You just have to cross the road from SeaSpace and you’re on the South West Coast Path. Turn right and you’ll pass Whipsiderry Beach before reaching Watergate Bay, where Wavehunters offers surf rental and lessons in season and out. We’ve decided to stay dry today, so turn left and follow the path around the headland down towards Porth. The waves are powerful and we stand and watch for a while as they surge up against the cliffs, sending plumes of water into the January air. We’re rewarded with a large seal who seems to be enjoying the waves as much as the neoprene-clad surfers.
We walk out to Porth Island as we can hear the blow hole working. The cliff reminds me of a sleeping dragon, gently snoring, until the next set comes through and it awakens with a large boom and an impressive plume of water and spray is launched into the air. We’re one of just a few families who have donned hats and scarves and ventured out to enjoy the sea air. There’s no rush nor tear, it’s all very civilised as we nod our hellos and make our way into Porth. I make a beeline for Roo’s Beach. It’s a must-visit clothes boutique, come coffee shop, come plant emporium. Everything is expertly curated by Roo and her team and it’s rare that a visit doesn’t result in a purchase such are the delights within.
From Porth, we walk into Newquay itself following the coast path, where we find it has regained it’s year-round buzz. We love The Boathouse with its array of street food and it even boasts a wood-fired pop-up sauna courtesy of Olla Hiki. There’s nothing nicer than a winter sea dip followed by the warmth emanating from the sauna coals.
As teenage daughter is not relishing the return clifftop walk, we hire Beryl Bikes for our return journey. I honestly feel like I have returned to those teenage years of my youth as we fly down Porth Hill, the wind and sea air in our hair. We might only be less than an hour from home but the escape feels like a world away.
There’s no getting away from the walk back up the hill, but it does serve to warm us up as when the sun dips so does the temperature. Back at SeaSpace we warm up with a dip in the Miami-inspired pool and a soak in the hot tub. All those who stay have complimentary use of the pool and can even request a day-pass to use after you check out. True to its inclusive offering, community memberships are available for the pool, gym and fitness classes which includes 10% discount in the café and there are five padel tennis courts opening in Spring 2025.
It feels like Newquay has come of age and businesses like SeaSpace are playing an integral part in that, fostering a neighborhood spirit that will draw digital nomads, staycationers and visitors alike, year round.